The French dessert first appears in François Massialot's 1691 cookbook ‘Cuisinier Royal et Bourgeois’—a contending option for the collection name. I do hope to appeal to the Royal and Bourgeois, naturally. The classic dessert, baked by ceramicist/baker Sophie Goldschmidt, sits atop an ashtray I sourced from France. Pernod is one of the oldest anise-based aperitifs in France. We have booze, smoking and dessert. A perfect date. A perfect way to fall in love, if not with the man, then at least with the consumables.